SIPS: A tale of two malbecs (and you thought malbec only came from Argentina)

After a long conversation about business with a friend, I  reminded her that, among other things, I write about wine. She responded by noting how she had recently been enjoying malbec. She quickly confirmed my hunch that she was  referring to malbec from Argentina, which has become an “it” red wine of late. I wasn’t surprised that she had no idea that malbec originated in France, as a blending variety in Bordeaux, where it has all but disappeared, and, more importantly, in Cahors in the southwest, where it remains the centerpiece of that appellation. More on Cahors in a moment.

But first, Argentine malbec can be stunning. One has only to  spend an evening with a wine like the 2008 Malbec from Luca Vineyard and Winery in the Uco Valley of Mendoza to get a sense of the variety’s depth and range in the sun-drenched region. This limited-production wine, which is priced at retailers on wine-searcher.com at anywhere from $25 to $37, has a refined, Bordeaux-like elegance with sweet and concentrated blackberry and plum tastes joined by earth and coffee notes, all supported by a fine tannic structure. Alcohol is 14 percent. Imported by Vine Connections, Sausalito, California.

Based on a sampling of several Cahors releases, the French wines deserve more attention than they are getting. Compared with malbecs from Argentina, their style is a bit less fruit forward and more lean, although I found good concentration and lots of complexity.  I also found the popular notion that they be somewhat coarse and unrefined to be overstated, at least in ‘06 and ‘07 vintages.

My favorite was the 2007 Cahors from Chateau de Gaudou, a ready-to-drink blend of 80 percent malbec, 15 percent merlot and five percent tannat. It has relatively soft tannins, blackberry and blueberry fruit and notes of mlk chocolate, herbs and black pepper. I was shocked at its $10 price. Alcohol is 13 percent. Imported by USA Wine Imports, New York.

Also worth trying is the 2006 Cahors from Chateau de Haute-Serre, which is well balanced with beautiful fruit, mainly blackberry, along with earth and tobacco notes. It’s listed on wine-searcher.com at at between $17 and $22. The blend is 80 percent malbec, 10 percent merlot and 10 percent tannat. Alcohol is 13 percent. Imported by Baron Francois, New York.

Notably, and with good reason, the varieties are listed on the labels of these wines.  This represents a welcome loosening of the strict French appellation and labeling laws that will allow the wines compete  more effectively with their New World counterparts. The average wine drinker will know that France, as well as Argentina, produces first-rate malbecs. Wines received as press samples.

Technorati Tags: Malbec,Argentina malbec,Argentine wines,Cahors,Southwest France,Luca Malbec,Mendoza,Chateau de Gaudou,Chateau de Haute-Serre,Edward Deitch,French red wines,Wine labels,Vine Connections,Baron Francois,USA Wine Imports

Swirls: Discovering the hidden charms and values of South West France

Yesterday I moderated a panel discussion here in New York on the wines of South West France. This corner of the country, which has long lived in the shadow of Bordeaux to the north and even Langudeoc-Rousillon to the east, deserves much more attention for its unique, terroir-driven wines. The region is  large, framed by the Atlantic Ocean on the west, Spain and the   Pyrenées on the south and the Massif Central mountains on the east.

Despite its relative obscurity, it happens to be where some of the most popular international varieties, including merlot and cabernet sauvignon, originated as relatives of cabernet franc, although these grapes are but minor players there today. Malbec, which has enjoyed so much success in Argentina, also originated in the South West and remains an important grape there, most notably in Cahors. Tannat, négrette and braucol among reds and colombard, gros manseng and ugni-blanc among whites are used in some of the more popular wines.

A tasting of a dozen or so wines after the discussion revealed a range of red styles, from the lighter, fruitier wines of Fronton, Gaillac and Marcillac to the bigger, more brooding wines of Madiran and Cahors. The whites were on the fruity and citrusy side, including nice examples from the Saint-Mont and Irouleguy appellations. The whites will serve splendidly as refreshing aperitif wines and will match well with fish, shellfish, sushi and other lighter fare. They are nice alternatives to sauvignon blanc and many are considerably less expensive. In fact, most wines from the South West are in the $10 to $20 range or even less. I’ll have more to say in coming weeks about specific wines from this exciting and distinctive region.

Technorati Tags: South West France,South West wines,Malbec,Tannat,Negrette,Braucol,Cahors,Madiran,Gaillac,Marcillac,Saint-Mont,Irouleguy,Edward Deitch,Bordeaux,Langudeoc-Rousillon,Gros manseng,Ugni-blanc,Colombard

Notable winter reds

At 17 degrees here in New York , some hearty reds I’ve enjoyed  in recent days come to mind.

From the far reaches of my wine collection, Chateau Lagrezette’s 2000 Cahors “Le Pigeonnier” demonstrates what a few years of bottle age will do for malbec grown in Cahors in southwest France. Cahors is usually quite rough when young, but this one, at nine years old, had given up most of its rough edges when I served it with some steaks grilled in the fireplace the other night. Notes of blackberry, black cherry, mocha and cedar. A superb wine. When I looked for retailers that carried it on wine-searcher.com, there was exactly one listing: Gary Vaynerchuk’s Wine Library in Springfield,  New Jersey,  which offers it at $154. Obviously a wine for special occasions.

From Italy’s Piedmont, Marchesi di Gresy’s 2006 Barbaresco “Martinenga” is an excellent wine from the famed Barbaresco appellation. Made from the region’s signature nebbiolo grape, I was surprised by its accessibility at this youthful stage. Light ruby in color, it’s softly tannic with delicious fruit, showing notes of raspberry, cherry, tobacco and  earth.  Irresistible. For all kinds of roasts (we enjoyed it with homemade spaghetti and meatballs). $55. Imported by Marchesi di Gresy USA, Napa, California.

From the south of France, Hecht & Bannier’s 2006 Cotes du Roussillon Village is a winning blend of mainly grenache with smaller amounts of syrah and carignan with notes of sweet blackberry, cherry and earth. Bright acids balance the 14.5 percent alcohol and make it an excellent partner for pan-seared pork chops, sirloin steak and lamb. The suggested price is $25. Imported by Frederick Wildman and Sons, New York.