In an endless winter, wines that will transport you to summer

As I write this, it’s about to drop down to two degrees again here in New York, hardly the kind of weather that brings on thoughts of refreshing summer wines. But as part of my own strategy for coping with this brutal blast of winter we’ve been enduring for weeks, that’s exactly what I’ve been tasting. They're not a substitute for a warm beach, but they've taken some of the chill out of my mind, at least, and given me a jump on some exciting new releases to be enjoyed in the months ahead.

From New Zealand, Mud House’s 2014 Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc ($12) immediately got me in the spirit of spring. This is classic Kiwi sauvignon with delicious grapefruit and gooseberry notes, vibrant acidity and a touch of cream on the long finish. It’s notable as well for its roundness -- there’s nothing strident, as New Zealand sauvignons can sometimes be. Alcohol is 13 percent. Imported by Accolade Wines North America, Napa, California.

I have often said that rosés can and should be drunk through the year, a point reinforced by the first two rosés I’ve tasted this year. They represent two very different styles and both are memorable.

From France’s Loire Valley, Saget La Perrière’s 2014 La Petite Perrière Rosé ($14) is as refreshing a rosé as you’ll find, It is made from 100 percent pinot noir, an under-appreciated Loire variety. I was struck immediately by a liveliness produced by its bright acidity, just the right quality to counteract a deep-winter funk. With its light salmon color its tastes evoke ripe cherry and strawberry with some lemon, orange and a touch of cream on the finish. Alcohol is 12 percent.

In a slightly fuller style, the 2014 Los Vascos Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé ($14) is notable for its minerality that punctuates concentrated strawberry and raspberry notes. There’s a refreshing citrusy finish on this one as well. Alcohol is 13.5 percent. Los Vascos is produced in Chile’s Colchagua Valley and is owned by Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite). Both rosés will be available this spring and are imported by Pasternak Wine Imports, Harrison, New York. All three wines were received as samples for review.

Sips: Out to dinner in the south of France, where the wines (and the prices) are refreshing

Last night with friends, we had a nice meal at Restaurant La Grange in Bize Minervois in France’s Languedoc region. Almost all the wines on the list were from the list were from Minervois, so they didn’t have to travel more than a few miles from vineyard to table. Even so, I was struck by the prices. They were downright cheap. A very good bottle of rosé, Domaine Sainte Leocadie’s 2011 “Leukadios” Minervois, a blend of syrah and grenache, was just 13 euros, or about $16 or so. A red Minervois was 16 euros, or about $20. Remember, this is at a restaurant. Yes, I know that the wines are local and that the dollar is stronger than it’s been in years. But the good folks at Restaurant La Grange are doing something very right, it seems to me, by not marking up their wines excessively. At these prices, we were definitely going to order two bottles of wine and, beyond that, will keep the restaurant in mind for the next time we’re in the region. For me, wines are an essential part of a good meal, and it’s nice, for a change, to be in a place where they are reasonably priced. “Usually here you would double it,” one of our friends said of the markup from retail. “Most people know the prices of retail and would feel ripped off if they tripled it.” A good meal with some good-value wines left us with a feeling of goodwill. Perhaps from a little village in southern France there’s a small lesson for restaurants back home.

del.icio.us Tags: Laguedoc rosé,Languedoc wines,Minervois,Edward Deitch,Bize Minervois,Restaurant La Grange,Domaine Sainte Leocadie,Restaurant wines,French wines

Sips: Some of this summer’s best new rosés

Dozens of rosés have come my way in recent weeks, and in my latest MSNBC column I highlight ten outstanding wines from Spain, France, Portugal, Austria, Washington and Oregon, where they are making some superb rosés of pinot noir in the Willamette Valley. I was struck by the inherent value of these ten wines. They pack a lot of complexity for $20 or under (just one of them had a suggested price of $20) and they demonstrated again that rosés are not only great aperitif wines, but are highly versatile food wines that can be enjoyed with everything from fish to grilled meats. I have always thought that rosés can and should be enjoyed throughout the year, although most people view them as a rite of spring and summer. Most rosés currently available are from the 2011 vintage, but those from 2010 I tasted were just fine. Because there are so many good rosés available, I’ll have another list of standouts later in the summer.

del.icio.us Tags: Rosés,Spain rosé,Austria rosée,Washington rosé,Oregon rosé,Portugal rosé,France rosé,Edward Deitch,Willamette Valley rosé,MSNBC wine

Sips: Post-hurricane, the power returns and the corks pop

Hurricane Irene, as everyone knows, inflicted only a glancing blow on New York City, but in the suburbs and beyond it was a much different story. The day after, we spent most of the day cleaning up around our house in eastern Long Island, and now it was time for some (hopefully) good wines.

Irene knocked out power to our entire town, along with about half a million other homes and businesses throughout the island. There was no damage to our place but lots of branches and leaves blanketed the property. Down the street some big trees were down, one crashing on a main power line, closing the road, another a huge weeping willow blown over, narrowly missing the historic home next to it. Fortunately for us our neighbors have a   big emergency generator and they were nice enough to let us run an extension line from their house to ours. Candlelight is fine for a night, but the adventure quickly gives way to frustration.

With the lights on we were able to start preparing a decent meal and went with a simple favorite – penne tossed with crisply sautéed Italian sausage and broccoli rabe. As we cooked we started off with what turned out to be just the right aperitif wine – a light and lively Italian rose, Santi’s 2010 Infinito, a Bardolino  from the Veneto region. Salmon colored, the blend is 65 percent corvina, 30 percent rondinella and five percent molinara. It was an instant hit with its cherry and strawberry flavors accented by some herbal notes and a touch of lime rind. Fruity and refreshing, it was great for casual drinking with alcohol at just 11.5 percent. The suggested retail price is $11. (Imported by Frederick Wildman and Sons, New York.)

With dinner I wanted a serious red, and with the weather now  cool and clear after the storm, it was the perfect night to try something I’d been avoiding in the heat of summer -– a big California  red. I went with Sbragia Family Vineyards’ 2007 Rancho Del Oso Cabernet Sauvignon from the Napa Valley’s Howell Mountain District. This exquisite, concentrated yet precisely balanced wine is showing very well right now and, with ample acidity, belies its relatively high alcohol level of 14.8 percent. No California clunker here. The blend is 95 percent cabernet sauvignon and five percent cabernet franc. With a classic blackberry core and notes of graphite and truffles, this is a California cab I could drink every day. It was perfect with our sausage and broccoli rabe dish and will match nicely with all kinds of meats and risotto with mushrooms. It’s listed on Sbragia’s website at $75. (Wines received as press samples.)

Technorati Tags: Santi Infinito Rosé,Veneto wines,Frederick Wildman and Sons,Italian rosés,Sbragia Family Vineyards,Spragia 2007 Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon,Spragia cabernet,Edward Deitch,Napa Valley cabernet sauvignon,Howell Mountain cabernet sauvignon

Sips: A sampling of top Long Island wines for summer drinking

When the editors of a new website, Metrofocus.org based here in New York, asked me to contribute a piece on New York wines,  I decided to focus this first article on the wines of Long Island’s East End, particularly the North Fork, where most of the region’s 60-plus wineries and vineyards are located.  The wines, which I have been following closely for many years, are worth seeking out for their elegance and relatively low levels of alcohol. Among others, you’ll find lots of crisp, fresh whites that are perfect for summer drinking. Click here to read my article, which includes a list of five top Long Island wines I found in my tastings. Wines received as press samples.

Technorati Tags: McCall Wines,Long Island wines,North Fork wines,Long Island East End,Edward Deitch,Croteaux Vineyards,Lieb Cellars,Channing Daughters,Jamesport Vineyards,New York wines

Sips: A rosé from California’s Clayhouse Wines

It’s Father’s Day and a little rosé is in order this afternoon.  Clayhouse Wines 2010 Adobe Pink is a concentrated blend of roughly one-third each of mourvèdre, syrah and cabernet sauvignon from California’s Central Coast.  Almost copper in color, it shows cassis and herb notes with lime and the slightest bit of vanilla on the long finish. Bursting with flavor. Recommended for grilled herbed chicken and pork. The suggested price is $14. Received as a press sample.

Technorati Tags: Clayhouse Wines,Clayouse Adobe Pink,Central Coast wines,California rosés,Rosés,Edward Deitch,Under-$20 wines

Swirls: NY supermarket wine sales, wine & weight loss, a 13-year-old rosé

SWIRL: Legislation aimed at changing how wine is sold here in New York is once again making its way through the Legislature in Albany. On one hand, it seems lawmakers may finally be heading toward the right balance when it comes to permitting grocery  stores to sell wine, while also giving liquor stores more flexibility in what they can sell and to whom. The Times Union has a good editorial on this today. At the same time, Dr. Vino.com has an interesting item on another New York bill that would curtail the ability of restaurants to purchase interesting older vintages from collectors and other sources, bypassing wine distributors.

SWIRL: If you’re trying to lose weight, are eating less but just don’t see much of a change, it could be those two or three glasses of wine you’re drinking. A survey of 2,000 people in Britain found that fewer than one third had an idea how many calories there are in a standard glass of wine (134). Read more about it in Scotsman.com and Marie Claire.

SWIRL: As we head into high season for rosé with lots of 2010 releases, most of them to be drunk within the next few months, Jeremy Parzen highlights one of the world’s ultimate rosés in the Houston Press -- R. López de Heredia 1998 Viña Tondonia Rosado Gran Reserva. Yes, a 13-year-old rosé that, like most wines from this great Rioja producer, is aged for years in barrels before release. They are singular wines, providing a unique tasting experience.

Technorati Tags: Wine sales in New York supermarkets,Grocery store wine sales,New York Legislature wine,Times Union wine,Dr. Vino.com,Restaurant wines,Wine and weight loss,Scotsman.com,Marie Claire,Rosé,Jeremy Parzen,Houston Press,R. López de Heredia Viña Tondonia Rosado Gran Reserva,Edward Deitch,Wine and health

Sips: A roundup of notable new wines from France, California and Argentina

Since I’ve been leaning heavily toward wine news in recent weeks, I thought I would share some exciting new releases that will make for excellent spring and summer drinking. With one exception, all the wines are under $20. Also of note, given my piece earlier this week about alcohol levels, four of the five wines here are under 14 percent, which, no doubt, is part of why I enjoyed them.

Bieler Père et Fils 2010 “Sabine” Coteaux d-Aix-en-Provence Rosé. $12. This appealing and well-priced rosé  demands food with its considerable herb notes that punctuate strawberry, raspberry, citrus and subtle vanilla tastes. With its pretty, light-salmon color it shows considerable complexity and came into its own the herb-roasted chicken. The  blend is 50 percent syrah, 30 percent grenache and 20 percent cabernet sauvignon. Alcohol is 13.5 percent. Imported by Bieler Père et Fils, Sausalito, California.

Alta Maria Vineyards 2009 Chardonnay Santa Maria Valley, California. $28. This superb chardonnay from Santa Barbara County shows perfect balance, with pear, white peach, orange and lime, plus subtle vanilla and cream notes. Oak is seamlessly integrated. The fruit was sourced from the famed Bien Nacido and Solomon Hills Vineyards and the wine bears their unmistakable signature. Alcohol is 14.1 percent.

Carmel Road 2009 Chardonnay, Monterey County, California. $18. A beautifully balanced chardonnay with nuanced oak, pear, vanilla and a hint of orange. Effortless to drink and a real value. Alcohol is 13.5 percent.

Domaine de la Madone 2009 Beaujolais “Le Perreon,” Beaujolais Villages, France. $15. This first-rate Beaujolais from an excellent vintage is distinguished by the unusual concentration of its fruit, mainly blueberry and black cherry, with an appealing note of braised meat that adds to its complexity. From the gamay grape, it’s the kind of red wine I could drink all summer. Alcohol is 13 percent. Imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, New York

Argento 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon, Mendoza, Argentina. $11. An excellent budget cabernet with classic blackberry tastes joined by plum and red berry notes as the wine opens up, revealing surprising complexity. Smoke, cinnamon and brown sugar round things out, all of it framed by a good tannic structure. Should serve as a wake-up call to California for what’s being produced elsewhere for $10 or so. Alcohol is 13.5 percent. Imported by Lion Nathan USA, Overland Park, Kansas.

Technorati Tags: Beaujolais,Provence rose,Rose,Bieler Pere et Fils "Sabine" Rose,Alta Maria Vineyards,Alta Maria Chardonnay,Carmel Road Chardonnay,Edward Deitch. Santa Maria Valley Chardonnay,Santa Barbara Chardonnay,Argento Cabernet Sauvignon,Argentina cabernet sauvignon,Michael Skurnik Wines,Lion Nathan USA,Domaine de la Madone Beaujolais "Le Perreon",Beaujolais Villages

Sips: the wines of summer – getting through a long, brutal winter with a good bottle of rosé

The thought of rosé in February makes many people wince.  Aren’t blush wines the easygoing liquid of summer, to be enjoyed, chilled as they are, on beach or patio as a refreshing cross between red and white? Of course they are. But once you get past the psychological barrier of drinking rosé in cold weather, I think  you’ll find them (the good ones, at least) as delightful in mid-winter as in the dog days of summer. Good luck to me in persuading many of you that that’s the case.

But let’s examine the proposition a little more closely. A bottle of salmon-colored wine arrives at your doorstep, say Jean-Luc Colombo’s 2010 Cape Bleu Rosé, a $12 vin de pays from the Côte Bleu district outside Marseille with a watercolor representation of sea and sky and vineyard on the label. At first, you dismiss the notion as hopelessly off base when piles of dirty snow and subfreezing temperatures have become what seem like permanent features of the East Coast landscape and climate. But then you think of the months ahead, the inevitable thaw, spring, summer. Go ahead, try it. Well, I did the other night, tentatively at first, but quickly realizing that this was very good wine and a wine for all seasons.

That judgment gets to one of the fundamentals of rosé. Depending on the bottle, it can be a remarkably versatile food wine, as I have described it many times in the past. In this case, we enjoyed it with very fresh fluke (summer flounder) fillets roasted with Dijon mustard and tarragon. It will also match nicely with herbed chicken and pork dishes, salads and all kinds of appetizers. Its light style, with ripe strawberry and cherry tastes and a bit of citrus and cream on the finish, also make it a winning apéritif. The blend is 40 percent syrah, 40 percent mourvèdre and 20 percent counoise and alcohol is listed at a modest 12 percent. Rosé in winter? You bet.

Imported by Palm By International, Boca Raton, Florida. Received as a press sample.

Technorati Tags: Jean-Luc Colombo,Vin de Pays de Mediterranee,Cepe Bleu Rose,Rose,French rose,Rose in winter,Palm Bay International,Edward Deitch,Southern France rose,Syran,Mourvedre,Counoise

Sips: some favorite late-summer wine values from Spain, Chile and Italy

SIP: The weather has cooled slightly, but there’s still lots of time for rosé, including Julián Chivite’s 2009 Gran Feudo Rosado from the Navarra region of Spain.  It had been a few years since I tasted this wine, and I was reminded the other day just how delicious it is for all of $10 (that’s what I paid for it, but I’m sure you can find it for even less). Made from the garnacha (grenache) grape, with notes of cherry, cassis and spice. It’s great on its own and will match with lots of foods, including chicken, duck, tuna and bluefish. Alcohol 13 percent. Imported by Spain Wine Collection, Congers, New York.

SIP: Natura is a line of wines made with organically grown grapes by Viñedos Emiliana in Chile’s Valle Central. The other day I got  around to tasting the 2008 Natura Cabernet Sauvignon. This is superb, inexpensive cabernet (Wine-Searcher.com lists it from $8 to $12) and is superior to almost all cabs from California at this price. It’s 85 percent cabernet with 10 percent carmenere and smaller amounts of cabernet franc and malbec. It shows good varietal character with notes of blackberry, black cherry, mocha and some herbal overtones. Well balanced, moderately tannic and ready to drink (I enjoyed it slightly chilled). Alcohol 14 percent. Imported by Royal Imports, Old Brookville, New York. (Received as a press sample.)

SIP: With Italian-style tomato sauces, I am partial to Italian wines, and one of my recent favorites is Fontanafredda’s 2008 “Briccotondo” Barbera from the Piedmont region. I’ve bought it twice recently in New York and Long Island, paying $15 each time. The other night we enjoyed it with a simple sauce created from a big bag of “seconds” tomatoes I bought for $2 at one of the local farm stands, some basil and parsley. I tossed the pasta into the sauce in a cast-iron skillet,  sprinkled some grated mozzarella cheese on top and then broiled it for a few minutes to create a wonderful crusty top. Our whole meal (for six people) cost about $10 or so and the Briccotondo was the perfect accompaniment with its ample acidity and notes of cherry, blueberry and earth. A good, inexpensive barbera like this one is just made for simple, fresh tomato sauces that we are lucky enough to make at this time of year. Alcohol 13.5 percent. Imported by Domaine Select Wine Estates, New York.

del.icio.us Tags: Julian Chivite,Gran Feuto Rosado,Navarra,Spanish rosés,Spanish wines,Natura,Organic wine,Natura Cabernet Sauvignon,Natura Sauvignon Blanc,Spain Wine Collection,Royal Imports,Viñedos Emiliana,Chile's Valle Central,Chile's Central Valley,Fontanafredda,Fontanafredda Birccotondo,Fontanafredda Barbera,Barbera,Piedmont wines,Domaine Select Wine Estates,Edward Deitch

Swirls: the top imported wines for quality and value – consumers and the wine trade weigh in

In terms of wine quality, which countries stand out the most to consumers? The question was put to more than 600 wine consumers in a survey by Wine Opinions, an Internet-based research firm. Wines were divided into four categories: whites/rosés under $20, reds under $20 and reds in the $20 to $50 range. The results:

• When it comes to under-$20 whites and rosés, more consumers rated the wines of Germany, New Zealand, France and Italy “outstanding” than those of other countries.
• For reds under $20, the wines of Italy, France, Spain and Argentina came out on top.
• For reds in the $20 to $50 range, France and Italy got the highest marks, with each rated outstanding by fully two-thirds of consumers, while roughly half gave the reds of Spain, Australia   and Argentina top marks.

What countries do best when it comes to value? Wine Opinions put that question to more than 200 members of the wine trade.

• For whites and roses under $20, the leaders were Argentina, Spain, Chile and Portugal. Despite a lot of lower-priced Australian whites on the market, Australia was at the bottom of the value chart in this category.
• When it comes to reds under $20, Argentina led the way, followed closely by Spain and Chile. Italy and France were somewhat lower.
• As for more expensive red wines, those priced at $20 to $50, Spain, Argentina, Italy and Chile were the value leaders. All were  considered “good” or “outstanding” in this regard by about three quarters or more of the respondents. France’s rating was relatively low, at 59 percent, “an indication of the difficulty France is having in this price category,” according to Wine Opinions’ analysis of the results.

del.icio.us Tags: Wine Opinions survey,Wine Opinions,Edward Deitch,Quality wines,Value wines,Wine quality,Wine values,Argentina wines,Chile wine,France wines,Italy wines,Australia wines,Spain wines,Portugal wines,Germany wines,New Zealand wines

Sips: Enjoying Schramsberg’s superb sparkling rosé

Just before going out to dinner last night, we broke out a bottle of Schramsberg’s 2006 Brut Rosé with friends, and we were not disappointed. I’ve become a real Schramsberg fan over the  years  -- the winery’s all-chardonnay Blanc de Blanc is a  favorite --and I would put the Brut Rosé right up there in terms of complex and rewarding sparklers. Pale salmon in color, the wine reveals enticing aromas of bread and citrus. In the mouth, the bubbles are very fine and the tastes include red berry, lemon-lime and an herb touch that gives it an interesting end note. The citrus also lingers as it goes down. The wine is nicely balanced with zippy acidity, which makes it truly refreshing and an excellent companion for food. It matched particularly well with a smoked trout cream spread. The blend is 68 percent pinot noir and 32 percent chardonnay. The grapes come from Carneros, the Anderson Valley and the Sonoma and Marin County coastal areas. Alcohol is 12.6 percent. The suggested price is $41, which isn’t exactly a bargain, but when you think of all those lesser $10-a-glass wines at restaurants and wine bars, it kind of puts things in perspective. Besides, on a clear summer evening with a cool breeze, the wine seemed just perfect for the season.  (Received as a press sample.)

del.icio.us Tags: Schramsberg,Schramsberg Brut Rosé,Sparkling wine,Sparkling rosé,Edward Deitch,California sparkling wine,Sonoma,California sparkling rosé,California rosé,Anderson Valley,Marin,Napa,Carneros

Sips: more great rosés for summer

As promised, I am following up with a couple of more rosés that have impressed me in recent days. From California’s Dry Creek Valley in Sonoma, the 2009 vintage of Quivira’s Grenache Rosé “Wine Creek Ranch” continues the footsteps of the  impressive ‘08. This is one of the more interesting rosés I’ve tasted this season, notable for its complexity and its welcome $15 price. Copper in color, it has tastes of ripe raspberry, pomegranate and tea with a good deal of spice, herbs and flowers in the mix. I enjoyed it with a quickly made salad of cold leftover leg of lamb, feta cheese, lettuce and arugula tossed with some olive oil and Balsamic vinegar. The blend is 90 percent grenache and 10 percent mourvèdre. Alcohol is listed at 13.8 percent. (Received as a press sample.)

On the other side of the rosé spectrum, from Italy’s Veneto region, is Riondo’s Pink Prosecco Raboso, an $11 bargain that’s lighter than air but a surprisingly good partner to guacamole and salsa, which I discovered when friends served it before dinner the other night. Lively and effortless to drink, it’s lightly sparkling with raspberry  notes and some herbs on the dry finish. And, with 10.5 percent alcohol, you’ll want to pack at least a couple of bottles for your summer picnic. It really is pink, by the way, and I also wouldn’t rule it out with a piece of chocolate cake. Imported by Riondo USA.

del.icio.us Tags: Quivira,Quivira Grenache Rosé,Dry Creek Valley,Grenache,Rosé,Summer Rosés,Riondo Pink Prosecco,Italian sparkling wines,Riondo,Prosecco,Veneto,Edward Deitch

Swirls: wine & Islam, natural winemaking and “cup-a-wine”

For the first time, as far as I can tell, wine is being used as part of a growing backlash in France against what some refer to as the  “Islamisation” of the country, which has the biggest Muslim population in western Europe. Read what happened when one group announced a pork-and-wine party in a largely Muslim neighborhood of Paris. Read how AFP reported the story.

Eric Asimov in The New York Times examines the good, the bad and ugly in natural winemaking, including attitudes about the practice. “Most people who make or like the wines,” he says, “feel  as they do simply because they enjoy the way the wines taste, not because they follow a particular dogma. When successful, natural wines can be superb, seeming bold, vibrant and fresh, graceful and unforced.” I, for one, agree. Read the full article.

And it was probably only a matter of time, but we have entered the era of “cup-a-wine” with the introduction of a product called Le Froglet in the UK.  That’s the not-particularly-endearing name of a plastic glass of French wine filled with a your choice of shiraz ,  chardonnay or rosé and kept in the glass with a “tear-off lid,” as in a cup of yogurt or fruit juice. One business news website says they are “flying off the shelves” at the Marks & Spencer chain. That may be the case, but it’s also worth reading one British wine blogger’s assessment. The product is also profiled in The Daily Mail, which has a picture. Sounds, uh, klassy.

del.icio.us Tags: Le Froglet,cup-a-wine,Marks & Spencer,Eric Asimov,natural wine,Islam and wine,pork-and-wine party,France and Islam,Daily Mail,AFP wine,Edward Deitch

Sips: rosé season officially starts

Not only was Memorial Day weekend the unofficial start of the summer season, but the official start of rosé season.  As I sampled a number of rosés at various parties, lunches and dinners, I was reminded of the versatility of the wines, which can complement everything from burgers and hot dogs to spicy grilled chicken to roasted whole fish, in this case freshly caught black sea bass from our favorite fish market.

With their almost infinite shades of pink and salmon and copper, rosés have become a red-hot category in recent years, and with good reason. Not only are they great aperitif wines, but they can effectively bridge the gap between whites and reds (they are made from the juice of red grapes with just minimal contact with the color-producing skins). I have often enjoyed rosés with simply grilled meats like lamb and steak, which are typical red-wine foods.

I’ll be pointing out rosés frequently this summer, starting with two that stood out for me this past weekend. From France, Jean-Paul Brun’s 2009 Rosé d’Folie Beaujolais is an unusual example of rosé from that region and from the gamay grape. It’s quite dry with tastes of spicy cherry, some herbs, a touch or orange rind and a distinct minerality that gives it a real sense of originality and place. It’s also made with wild or indigenous yeasts, which the exception rather than the rule in Beaujolais. $15. Imported by Louis/Dressner Selections, New York.

From Australia, I also enjoyed Robert Oatley’s 2009 Rosé of Sangiovese from the Mudgee region of New South Wales. Fruit-forward in style with notes of peach and watermelon, this one practically screams out “summer.” It’s  effortless to drink and is a natural for the picnic table and patio. $15. Imported by Robert Oatley Vineyards, Petaluma, California. (Wines received as press samples.)

del.icio.us Tags: Jean-Paul Brun,Rosé d'Folie Beaujolais,Beajuolais,Beaujolais rosé,Edward Deitch,Robert Oatley,Robert Oatley Rosé of Sangiovese,Mudgee,Australian rosé,French rosé,Summer wines

Sips: the first rosé

The temperature is a chilly 56, but I am thinking of the warmer days to come this evening and sipping the season’s first rosé, an excellent wine from the Languedoc region of southern France, a 2008 Vin de Pays du Gard from Roc d’Anglade, a small producer of organic wines. This blend of syrah, grenache and carignan is a delicious, pale-salmon-colored wine that is very dry but has expressive red-fruit essences, notably raspberry and strawberry, with touches of lime and vanilla on the finish and a nice little tannic  framework. It’s a model of rosé elegance. As for the vintage (2008), it has obviously been around for a year or so.  While just about everyone seems bent on drinking only the latest rosé releases – the 2009s are coming into the market now – the Roc d’Anglade reminded me that rosés are just fine in the bottle for a year or two; in fact, I would venture a guess that this one, with its expressive fruit, has benefitted a bit from a year of bottle age. Even though I’m shivering a bit, I’m enjoying this first rosé of summer as I write this. Some 500 cases were produced. A check of wine-searcher.com reveals that it sells for $23 wine at Sherry-Lehman in New York. A pricey rosé, but then you do get what you pay for. A Becky Wasserman Selection, imported by USA Wine Imports, New York. (Received as a press sample.)

del.icio.us Tags: Rosé,French rosés,Roc d'Anglade,Edward Deitch,Laguedoc rosé,Becky Wasserman,Sherry-Lehman

The first rosé: a taste of spring

I must say that I enjoyed tasting the first of the 2009 rosés to come my way, even as it snowed (yet again) here in New York. I don’t know about you, but this is about the time when I start to get just a little tired of winter, despite the good skiing we’ve had and the excitement of watching the Vancouver Olympics games.  And so, Jean-Luc Colombo’s 2009 Cape Bleue Rosé from near Marseilles in southeastern France came just at the right time and made me imagine the warmer days that lie ahead.  

The $12 wine, a Vin de Pays de Mediterranée, is light copper in color and is a blend of 40 percent syrah, 40 mourvèdre and 20 percent counoise. With notes of raspberry, cherry, yellow peach, this is a bright rosé with minerals and a bit of citrus and green herb on the finish. Enjoy it as an aperitif and with broiled fish, chicken and lighter vegetable dishes. A welcome taste of spring. Imported by Palm Bay International, Boca Raton, Florida. (Received as a press sample.)

Dry Valentine’s sparklers

As Valentine’s Day approaches, I can’t think of a more classic pairing for chocolate cake than pink or red sparkling wines. To prove the point, I’ve been pairing slices of the belated chocolate birthday cake my wife baked for me with both dry and sweet bubbly this week. A couple of dry wines stand out.

Look for Nicolas Feuillatte’s Champagne Rosé Brut. This salmon-colored wine with a suggested price of $48 is fresh and yeasty on the nose with perfumed raspberry, cassis and citrus notes. It’s light on the  palate with strawberry and lemon notes and a creamy finish. Clean and focused with fine bubbles. The blend is 60 percent pinot noir, 30 percent pinot meunier and 10 percent chardonnay.

Cava from Spain is one of the world’s top sparkling wine values, and Freixenet is the leading brand, well-known for its under-$10 wines. A nice step up is Freixenet’s “Elyssia” Pinot Noir Brut rosé, at $18.  Its fruity aromas suggest cranberry and yellow peach; in the mouth a Maraschino cherry note, a little bitterness and very ample acidity make for an interesting and rewarding combination.

Look for some “sweet” suggestions in my next post. (Wines received as press samples.)