In a different league: Grgich Hills 2014 Fumé Blanc

The wine world is awash in sauvignon blanc. The grape is ubiquitous, grown in just about every wine-producing country, from the zippy Southern Hemisphere wines of New Zealand and Chile, to the mineral-driven sauvignons of France’s Loire Valley, to the more opulent wines of California, where one sauvignon blanc is in a class by itself.

That wine is Grgich Hills's Fumé Blanc (another name for sauvignon), and the recently released 2014 vintage is spectacular. This $31 estate wine made from organically grown grapes (as are all Grgich Hills wines), is one of the most balanced and elegant sauvignons you’ll find anywhere. The 2014 vintage is the best I’ve tasted in recent years.

Make no mistake, this is a sauvignon driven by the fruit, and in the mouth there is a lot of it to behold, with notes of pear and apple, some tropical fruit, touches of orange and pink grapefruit, and hints of green apple skin and white flowers. A long, mineral-driven finish gives the wine an attractive “chewiness.” There is an opulence here, achieved in part by the concentration of the fruit itself, but also by the subtle use of oak barrels in fermentation and aging, including six months on the lees. Opulent, but not overpowering, thanks to a good measure of acidity that keeps things fresh.

Many wine drinkers think of sauvignon as little more than cheap and decent wash-down wine, and there is certainly a place for those bottles, whether from Bordeaux or Chile or other parts of California. Grgich Hills brings American sauvignon to a different level and, at $30 or so, the 2014 Fumé Blanc seems like a bargain. (Received as a press sample.)

Sips: From Napa, Smith-Madrone’s 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon

Charles and Stuart Smith do something unusual with their Smith-Madrone cabernet sauvignon. They hold it for several years before release, effectively pre-aging the wines. While most Napa and other California wineries are now releasing 2010 and even 2011 cabs, Smith-Madrone is still selling its 2006, which can be held for many more years but is drinking nicely right now.

This is a sophisticated and elegant cab grown in volcanic soils on the steep slopes of Spring Mountain at an elevation of almost 2,000 feet. The vineyard is dry farmed, meaning that it’s not irrigated. All of this is a recipe for complexity, which Smith-Madrone’s 2006 Cabernet is loaded with.

One is struck first by its earthiness, and minerality, which punctuate the dark fruit tastes, especially black currant and black cherry. The fruit is accented by fennel seed, unsweetened chocolate and leather notes and is supported by a good deal of acidity. The $40 wine was aged for 22 months in new American oak barrels. The blend is 85 percent cabernet sauvignon, nine percent cabernet franc and six percent merlot. Alcohol is 14.1 percent. Smith-Madrone also makes two white wines, a chardonnay and a superb riesling, which are also worth seeking out. Wine received as a press sample.

Sips: How Sweet It Isn’t – A Superb Dry California Riesling

Like the issue of climate change, the notion that dry riesling exists in this world still has its detractors -- those who believe that riesling is always sweet. Just the other day I found myself explaining the facts about riesling once again to someone who winced when I brought up the wine. For further irrefutable evidence, one need only turn to Trefethen’s delightful 2010 Dry Riesling from the Oak Knoll District of the Napa Valley. For me, this is Trefethen’s signature wine and the 2010, just released at $22, is a refreshing and complex in its aromas and tastes, which include white peach, green apple, orange and touches of ginger and white pepper. A wet stone aroma announces unmistakably that this is riesling. Minerals provide some texture to the long finish. The wine is a natural match for sushi as well as broiled flounder fillets and chicken  and makes for a crisp and refreshing aperitif. Alcohol is 12.5 percent. On the back label, Trefethen utilizes a very useful riesling sweetness scale that should be embraced by more in the industry. Based on levels of residual sugar, it tells consumers exactly where a wine stands on a scale from completely dry to very sweet. Received as a press sample.

   

Sips: Post-hurricane, the power returns and the corks pop

Hurricane Irene, as everyone knows, inflicted only a glancing blow on New York City, but in the suburbs and beyond it was a much different story. The day after, we spent most of the day cleaning up around our house in eastern Long Island, and now it was time for some (hopefully) good wines.

Irene knocked out power to our entire town, along with about half a million other homes and businesses throughout the island. There was no damage to our place but lots of branches and leaves blanketed the property. Down the street some big trees were down, one crashing on a main power line, closing the road, another a huge weeping willow blown over, narrowly missing the historic home next to it. Fortunately for us our neighbors have a   big emergency generator and they were nice enough to let us run an extension line from their house to ours. Candlelight is fine for a night, but the adventure quickly gives way to frustration.

With the lights on we were able to start preparing a decent meal and went with a simple favorite – penne tossed with crisply sautéed Italian sausage and broccoli rabe. As we cooked we started off with what turned out to be just the right aperitif wine – a light and lively Italian rose, Santi’s 2010 Infinito, a Bardolino  from the Veneto region. Salmon colored, the blend is 65 percent corvina, 30 percent rondinella and five percent molinara. It was an instant hit with its cherry and strawberry flavors accented by some herbal notes and a touch of lime rind. Fruity and refreshing, it was great for casual drinking with alcohol at just 11.5 percent. The suggested retail price is $11. (Imported by Frederick Wildman and Sons, New York.)

With dinner I wanted a serious red, and with the weather now  cool and clear after the storm, it was the perfect night to try something I’d been avoiding in the heat of summer -– a big California  red. I went with Sbragia Family Vineyards’ 2007 Rancho Del Oso Cabernet Sauvignon from the Napa Valley’s Howell Mountain District. This exquisite, concentrated yet precisely balanced wine is showing very well right now and, with ample acidity, belies its relatively high alcohol level of 14.8 percent. No California clunker here. The blend is 95 percent cabernet sauvignon and five percent cabernet franc. With a classic blackberry core and notes of graphite and truffles, this is a California cab I could drink every day. It was perfect with our sausage and broccoli rabe dish and will match nicely with all kinds of meats and risotto with mushrooms. It’s listed on Sbragia’s website at $75. (Wines received as press samples.)

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Sips: Mondavi’s Classic “To Kalon Vineyard” Fumé Blanc Reserve

For those who don’t mind spending $40 on an excellent California sauvignon blanc, Robert Mondavi’s 2009 Napa Valley “To Kalon  Vineyard” Fumé Blanc Reserve hits it out of the park. The just-released new vintage of this Napa classic sets a standard for barrel-aged California sauvignon. Extravagant yet beautifully balanced (even with alcohol at 14.2 or 14.5 depending on whether you read the fact sheet or the label). It’s complex yet effortless to drink. Pear, apricot, flower and herb notes are framed in subtle oak with Meyer lemon on the finish. The wine is rich but not overpowering thanks to bright acidity. The blend is 98 percent sauvignon and two percent sémillon. Though 100 percent of the juice was barrel fermented in French oak, only one quarter of the barrels were  new, averting the dreaded sauvignon-dressed-in-chardonnay-clothing quality. A natural with the brininess of Easter hams or richer seafood sauces. Quite irresistible. About 1,800 cases produced. (Fumé blanc, by the way, was the name Mondavi invented years ago for its barrel-aged sauvignons.) Received as a press sample.

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Sips: Raymond’s excellent Napa merlot

California merlot still suffers, I believe, from a somewhat undeserved reputation as an easy-drinking but largely undistinguished red. Raymond’s delicious 2007 Napa  Valley “Reserve Selection” Merlot belies that status and should be considered whenever the need calls for a distinctive and elegant Bordeaux-style wine. The first thing that appealed to me about this wine is that it is not overly alcoholic. The label lists alcohol at 14.2 percent, compared with some California merlots (and other reds) that exceed 15 percent and can suffer from an alcoholic hotness (Bordeaux reds typically weigh in at 13 percent ). Sorry, but it’s just hard for me to contemplate such wines as refreshing food companions. Second, Raymond’s merlot (with the addition of 15 percent cabernet sauvignon) is notable for its complexity, with concentrated tastes of ripe fig, plum, cherry and black cherry with background notes of earth, mocha and vanilla. Third, oak treatment is subtle and well integrated with the fruit, which is supported by a good tannic structure and ample acidity. All of this makes Raymond’s merlot an excellent companion to a variety of foods, including many beef and lamb, pork, chicken and vegetarian dishes. And its price, $23, is just right. Received as a press sample.

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The Daily Sip: with local and delectable bay scallops, a memorable chardonnay from Clos du Val

On eastern Long Island, ,where I spend a good deal of time, one of the most anticipated autumn events is the opening of the scallop season, which took place this past week. The area is famous for its Peconic Bay scallops – small, sweet and succulent and among the most delectable foods you will ever eat. Men on small boats are seen slowly plying the waters of the bay at this time of year, happily tolerating the wind and the cold as they comb the bottom with their dredges, hoping for a successful harvest. I have, on occasion, been among them and I can tell you that scalloping, when you are successful at it, is a most satisfying form of hard work.

Alas, we bought a pound of them the other night at our local fish  market, and while the price, $17, might seem high, it actually suggests that there are plenty of scallops out there right now. The price will inevitably rise through the season, which lasts through the winter, and in scarce years I have seen them for almost twice as much. Although they lend themselves to all kinds of recipes, they need almost no enhancement, and I like simply rolling them in flour and sautéing them in olive oil and butter until they are lightly golden, which is exactly what I did the other night.

As for the wine (white, of course), this is a case where a little oak will work wonders, complementing the slightly nutty quality of the scallops. After tasting several California chardonnays, the clear standout was Clos du Val’s  2006 Napa Valley Reserve Chardonnay. This is decidedly not one of those buttery California chardonnays that some people like. Rather, it was a model of restrained elegance, as most of Clos du Val’s wines are. With a few years of bottle age, the melding of fruit and oak was seamless. Pear and green apple tastes were joined by subtle notes of vanilla, orange peel and cinnamon. There was also a nice mineral quality that reminded me of  Burgundy. Alcohol is listed at a moderate 14.1 percent. With the scallops, I couldn’t have asked for a better match or a more memorable first dinner of the season. The wine, which was released some time ago, is listed in only a couple of stores on wine-searcher.com for about $43-$45. For me, the lesson here is in the value of letting good chardonnays age for a couple of years before drinking them. Received as a press sample.

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Swirls: wine and brain function, a guide to ‘bad wine,’ Jack Nicklaus wine

SWIRL: I’m always careful when it comes the subject of wine (or other alcohol) and health benefits; almost all studies that find a link emphasize that the purported benefits or associations with good health are based on light to moderate wine consumption. And that includes a newly released report that finds a link between moderate wine drinking and a reduced risk of decline in thinking skills. The Norwegian study was large, involving more  than5,000 people over a seven-year period. You can read more about it at WebMD.

SWIRL: There’s an excellent guide to what can go wrong with wine, from cork taint to oxidation and other problems, by Will  Lyons of the Wall Street Journal. He reminds us that “more often than not there is no fault with the wine at all” and the wine “just doesn’t taste how the drinker expected it to.” Read the full article by clicking here.

SWIRL: There’s a fairly long list of sports figures who have parlayed their celebrity into wine ventures. They range from race  car drivers, including Mario Andretti, football players, including Drew Bledsoe, at least one basketball legend (Larry Bird), and plenty of golfers, including Greg Norman. Now, Jack Nicklaus has joined the group, launching a limited collection of Napa Valley wines called Jack Nicklaus Wines in partnership with Terlato Wines. Read more at  BunkerShot.com.

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Swirls: Manchester United, Gordon Ramsay, China Rising

Some wine news from all over, starting with something I doubt you’ll see anytime soon in the United States: an official “wine sponsor” of a major sports team. But in England, Manchester  United has just signed up Chile’s biggest wine producer, Concha y Toro, according to Bloomberg Businessweek.

Meanwhile, the scandal over nasty-mouth restaurateur Gordon Ramsay’s alleged unpaid bills to wine and food suppliers continues to grow. The Huffington Post touches all the bases in its latest roundup.

And … thank God for China, legions of winemakers are saying from Bordeaux to Napa and beyond as the country’s thirst for expensive wine continues to grow. Sealing a business deal? Break out the Petrus. The San Jose Mercury News quotes one private club owner as saying that opening a bottle of Bordeaux worth thousands “shows generosity and indicates you are cultured."

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Swirls: tough times for some in Napa, Chile

I came across an interesting take from Australia on the impact of the recent earthquake in Chile, not only on that country’s wine industry, but on how damage from the quake might affect the fortunes of Australia’s wine business, which is dealing with “chronic oversupply problems.”

Meanwhile, I was struck by a report on the continuing fallout from the recession in the Napa Valley, with land values down and the threat of foreclosures up.

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Spring and sauvignon in the air

Good morning. Raise you’re hand, or your wine glass, if you’re ready for this seemingly endless winter to give way to spring. I’ve got just the wine that will help get you there. As I’ve pointed out  in my column in recent years, California sauvignon blancs are among the most exciting white wines (and best values) coming out of the state, and the new release of one of my  favorites shows why.

It’s the 2009 Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc from St. Supéry Vineyards and Winery. This is a rich yet refreshing sauvignon with citrus and subtle cut grass aromas. In the mouth it’s nicely balanced with dominant notes of lime and grapefruit and supporting touches of melon and vanilla. It’s also notable for its lively acids and reasonable alcohol level of 13.7 percent. For clams and oysters on the half shell, broiled flounder and lemon-herbed chicken. The suggested price is $20. You may also want to read my MSNBC.com review from a few years ago. (Received as a press sample.)

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A trio of California chardonnays

I’ve been sampling California chardonnays in recent days with an eye, as always, toward well-balanced wines that are not infused too heavily with oak and that are not overbearing in style. Three are worth considering.

Freemark Abbey’s well-focused 2008 Napa Valley Chardonnay is an excellent value at $22. It opens with a bit of citrus, which leads to notes of ripe melon, vanilla and butterscotch, with all the elements nicely integrated in a bright, refreshing style. With relatively modest alcohol of 14.1 percent,  the wine   was a perfect match with grey sole fillets roasted with Dijon mustard and a splash of vermouth.

Sbragia Family Vineyards’ 2007 Home Ranch Chardonnay from the Dry Creek Valley in Sonoma County is nuanced and balanced, quite Burgundian in character with pear and pink grapefruit tastes and judicious use of oak that leaves a subtle vanilla note on the finish. An elegant and sophisticated chardonnay. Another excellent buy at $26.

For a slightly richer style, consider another Sonoma wine, Rochioli Vineyards’ 2008 Russian River Valley Chardonnay. This highly enjoyable wine, with a suggested price of $50, shows pear, a considerable note of vanilla extract, some herbs and minerals and a touch of orange on the finish. All three of these wines were effortless to drink and matched well with foods, from fish to pan-seared pork chops to roast chicken. And remember, to enjoy their subtleties, don’t drink them too cold. (Wines received as press samples.)

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Bubbly

I’ve been tasting all kinds of sparkling wines in recent weeks with an eye toward suggesting some satisfying and economical choices for New Year’s and beyond.  There is, of course, nothing quite like Champagne (we’re talking about the genuine thing). Eric Asimov of The New York Times makes the case in his column last week  that it’s a good time to buy Champagne because prices are down; he includes one of my perennial favorites, Pol Roger Brut. I’m going to look beyond Champagne with some excellent sparkling wines that you can enjoy for a fraction of the cost.

From California, Mumm Napa’s Brut Rose is superb, with nice touches of raspberry, cream and herbs on the finish. It’s well worth the $24 suggested price.

From Washington State, Domaine Ste. Michelle’s Columbia Valley Brut is very dry with fine bubbles and notes of pear, lemon, bread and herbs. At $12, it has unusual richness.

Also from Washington, Pacific Rim’s “White Flowers” Brut Sparkling Riesling, $14, is tangy and tart with white peach, lemon and lime notes. A natural pairing with shellfish and even caviar.

From Argentina, Trapiche’s Extra Brut, $12, is crisp and light with apple and citrus notes. Imported by Frederick Wildman and Sons, New York.

And from Italy, Oriel’s Prosecco 360 is a rich interpretation of the classic Italian sparkler. At about $15 or so, it has nice touches of pear and strawberry and a yeasty finish.

In tasting these and other non-Champagne sparklers, I was reminded once again that, at relatively reasonable prices, they offer a festive and satisfying experience. And in this economy, who isn’t looking for that? On that note, I’ll raise my glass and offer my best wishes for a happy and successful 2010.

2009 Thanksgiving wines

In case you hadn’t noticed, Thanksgiving wine advice is coming in fast and furiously, and I thought I’d share my own take on the subject with my annual MSNBC Thanksgiving wine column.  As

you’ll see, there are any number of ways to go. I’d also like to know what you think. Do you have a favorite red or white Thanksgiving wine? Let me know by leaving a comment below.