It’s
mid-August, and with the heat and humidity truly stifling here in New York, I
have no use for wines that aren’t fresh and light (while still interesting, of
course). Among whites, sauvignon blancs immediately come to mind. For the
“interesting” component, my mind -- and palate -- naturally veer toward
France’s Loire Valley.
The
Loire is sauvignon blanc country, unparalleled in its quality and range of
perspectives on the grape, from the racy and relatively uncomplicated wines of
the large Touraine appellation, to the complex and celebrated offerings from
Sancerre and its neighbor Pouilly Fumé.
Somewhere
in between are the wines of Quincy, a storybook village in the upper Loire that lives in the shadow of its
more famous neighbors like Sancerre. I remember thinking the first time I was there
that lunch didn’t get much better than a hunk of the local chèvre, a baguette
and a bottle of Quincy (although the young woman I was with may have had at
least something to do with it).
If
Quincy (pronounced can-SEE) is not a great sauvignon appellation, it is very good, and the prices
reflect its less rarefied place in the pecking order. That said, I was reminded
on tasting several samples sent to me this summer just how satisfying the wines
can be.
Take
Domaine Mardon’s 2014 Quincy “Tres Vielles Vignes,” listed online for $15 to
$20. Apricot, orange and lime notes are softened by a subtle creamy overlay
that also gives it richness. A steely minerality keeps it sharply focused. This
mineral component, by the way, is what defines good sauvignon and other Loire
wines, both white and red.
Another
standout is Domaine Sylvain Bailly’s 2015 Quincy “Beaucharme,” fresh and zingy,
light and complex with citrus, herb and subtle vanilla notes. It’s about $16
and available here. The stated alcohol level of both wines is a relatively
modest 13 percent.
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